IPhone XS

iPhone XS and XS Max are virtually the same design, as the circuits & IC's are the same, except the XS Max board is physically longer with a daughter touch board.

iPhone X thru XS Max Identification information Board Numbers

820-00863 X Qualcomm upper layer

820-00864 X Qualcomm lower layer

820-00863 X intel upper layer

820-00869 X intel lower layer

820-00997 XS  intel upper layer

820-01018 XS intel lower layer

820-01225 XSMAX  intel upper layer {| class="wikitable" !Problem !Solution
 * No Power
 * No Power

Pulls 2A before prompt to boot on DC Power Supply
 * Do a full visual inspection of the board and check for water damage under the stickers on the back. Remove the foam around the connectors to get a better look at everything. You're looking for any signs of corrosion on or around components and ICs.

If there is no water damage, is is most likely a shorted capacitor on any of the below lines:
 * PP_VDD_MAIN This is the most likely line to be shorted
 * PP_VDD_BOOST This line is usually shorted when it's not VDD MAIN
 * Speaker Amp (U4902 or U5002) This is a bit rare but it does happen

You'll need to inject voltage (4V / 2A) directly into the line you measured as short and use freeze spray (see here https://youtu.be/3MtLSQJvQxI) or thermal camera (see here: https://youtu.be/fkd4iDjgfvc) to spot the capacitor that is shorted.

In these cases, you can just remove the shorted capacitor and not replace it. The device will function normally with no negative effects.

Replacing it means you are adding more heat to the board to reinstall it, which increases the risk of something going wrong.

If you have a case of water damage, then you'll have to pay attention to the spots on the board where there's signs of water damage.

Often, you'll find corrosion on capacitors but also under ICs.

Since this is a 2 layer board, you can split the sandwich into 2 separate parts, top board & bottom board.


 * Then you can check to see if the short is still present when connecting the top layer to the DC Power Supply by itself.
 * If the short is still present, the culprit will be on the top board somewhere
 * If the short clears, then the short is present on the bottom board.
 * So in this case, you can inject voltage into the bottom board to find the short.

Please Note: If you are using a DC power supply to inject voltage through the battery connector, like using an iPower Pro or DT880 (see here https://youtu.be/rawjB9yxe1A), be aware that Yangtze may heat up instantly. This is because the battery connector line PP_BATT_VCC connects to PP_VDD_MAIN through it, which creates lots of heat. In most cases, the short is not the chip itself, but a shorted cap. In rare cases, it's Yangtze itself. So try removing it & check if there's any shorts under Yangtze. If not, then the issue was Yangtze and you'll need to replace it.
 * Turns On But Doesn't Charge
 * If the phone turns on but doesn't charge, you'll want to first rule out a parts issue:
 * If the phone turns on but doesn't charge, you'll want to first rule out a parts issue:


 * Unplug everything, ear speaker flex, power button flex, cameras, antennas, etc.
 * Only leave the screen, charging port and battery, then test again
 * If still not charging, test with a known good charging port, battery and screen.

Troubleshooting & Solutions:


 * 1) Sometimes, the ear speaker flex, which has a flood illuminator (for Face ID) and ALS sensor (for auto brightness and true tone), will get liquid damaged
 * 2) * These sensors sit right by where the ear mesh is located and it's super easy for liquid to sneak into the phone and get on these sensors. The corrosion will short data lines underneath them and cause bootlooping, not charging and other random issues.
 * 3) * If this is the case, you can either
 * 4) ** Replace the flex and lose Face ID
 * 5) ** Or safely remove the flood illuminator off the flex, clean off the corrosion and place it back
 * 6) ** Or sometimes the flex is damaged beyond repair, so you can swap the sensors to a new flex.
 * 7) In majority of cases, you'll find that replacing Yangtze (U3300) will solve charging problems
 * 8) * Yangtze will give the common "Tristar" issues that you would see on iPhone 7 and older models.
 * 9) * I would recommend you split the sandwich & test charging with just the top board, battery, charging port and screen.
 * 10) ** If you get 0.006 A or something very low, try replacing Yangtze
 * 11) In rare cases, Hydra will be the cause of the no charging.
 * 12) * Replace Hydra and see if that solves it.
 * No Touch
 * When dealing with an iPhone X with No Touch, first step is to rule out a parts issue:
 * When dealing with an iPhone X with No Touch, first step is to rule out a parts issue:


 * Unplug everything, ear speaker flex, power button flex, cameras, antennas, etc.
 * Only leave the screen, charging port and battery, then test again
 * If still not charging, test with a known good charging port, battery and screen.

Troubleshooting and Solutions

Sandwich Separation


 * 1) Most common cause of No Touch is separation between the top layer and interposer. AKA sandwich separation
 * 2) * Diode mode the Touch Connector (J5800)
 * 3) * If you find any lines that are OL, when they should have a Diode Mode reading, high chance the issue is the sandwich separating
 * 4) ** For XS Max, you'll often find RACER_TO_AOP_INT_CONN_L as OL due to sandwich separation or the pad on the top layer is ripped
 * 5) * Using a preheater/bottom heater, separate the top layer from the interposer
 * 6) * Check for any ripped pads
 * 7) ** If ripped pads, you'll need to repair them by scratching out the vias and traces, which may be difficult in some cases, as the traces are very fragile and small.
 * 8) * Then use an iSocket type of jig, that allows you to connect the top and bottom boards temporarily using spring loaded pins.
 * 9) * If touch works, then reball the sandwich and diode mode the touch connector again.
 * 10) * If the missing Diode Mode readings are back, then it should be solved
 * 11) Sometimes, the damage on the board is not the top layer, but on the bottom layer or bottom board and it requires a bottom board swap
 * 12) * Check if the board bends near where the SIM slot meets the interposer. Often times you'll see separation in that area.
 * 13) * Split the sandwich, then test the top and bottom boards in the iSocket type of Jig.
 * 14) * If still no touch, test the top board with a known good bottom board. Doing this will cause baseband and Wi-Fi not to work, but that's not important right now. We're just testing if touch works
 * 15) * If touch works with another bottom board, but not the original, then it's related to the bottom board and must be swapped.
 * 16) * There are some chips that are paired on the bottom board and must be swapped over.
 * 17) ** BBCPU (U_BB_K)
 * 18) ** Baseband Eeprom (EEPROM_K)
 * 19) *** Be careful; if you damage or lose this chip, then it's game over. Cellular function will never work.
 * 20) *** A safe way to deal with this, use a eeprom reader, like the JC Module Eeprom reader for the iPhone X.
 * 21) **** While BBCPU is already removed on both original and donor bottom boards, plug in the bottom board to the appropriate slot and read using the JC PC Software. Then remove the bottom board.
 * 22) **** Then plugin the new bottom board and click write.
 * 23) **** Make sure not to mix these up! If you overwrite the original eeprom and lose that data, then it's also gone forever. No way to recover it.
 * 24) ** NFC (U_NFC_S)
 * 25) *** Although NFC is not required to swap over, it will add extra time to the job if you dont swap it, as you have to go through the "Swipe to recover"/"Attempting data recovery" screen which can take 10–15 min to process.
 * 26) ** Wi-Fi (U_WLAN_W)
 * 27) *** WiFi is paired on this model & unfortunately, you cannot use Purple Mode (ie, iRepair P10), to unbind.
 * 28) *** You MUST swap WiFi to the new bottom board.
 * 29) * Once you swap over all the components above, test again with the iSocket Jig. Make sure all functions work, like:
 * 30) ** You can toggle Wi-Fi on/off
 * 31) ** There is touch
 * 32) ** The phone says "No SIM"
 * 33) *** If it says "Searching" or "No Service" or "Cellular Update Failed", check the sandwich connections again. Make sure there's no dirty flux all over the pads.
 * 34) *** Try reballing BBCPU again, might have been a bad job
 * 35) *** Try reading the original eeprom and writing it the replacement board
 * 36) *** Worst case, try an update on iTunes or 3u tools (flash and retain data), to see if that solves it.
 * 37) **** I don't recommend to restore or you will "lock" yourself out and it will require you to restore each time you "fix" the board issue.
 * 38) * This video goes over in detail, how to diagnose the bottom board issue and how to do a bottom board swap on an XS Max: https://youtu.be/wrvS1E9pd60
 * 39) If you still have No Touch with known good bottom board, check this
 * 40) * Diode mode the top layer interposer pads & see if any loose pads are present.
 * 41) * If so, repair the pads & test again

If you did the above but still no touch, try checking all your tools and parts.

Sometimes there's flux that gets the iSocket dirty

Or the extension flex for the iSocket gets damaged leading to no touch

Or maybe your tester screen went bad. The bottom layer and interposer break near the SIM tray area.
 * WiFi is Grayed Out
 * In majority of cases, this will be require a bottom board swap.
 * In majority of cases, this will be require a bottom board swap.

Refer to the above "No Touch" solution for a detailed walk through on a Bottom Board Swap process.

It's the same repair steps. No Service
 * Baseband Issues
 * Baseband Issues

Always Searching

Symptoms:

 * Here are the symptoms for cellular signal issues
 * With no SIM Card installed, the phone is always "Searching..." or "No Service".
 * A working phone will show "No SIM" with no SIM Card installed.
 * Dial *#06# in the phone app, and nothing happens
 * A working phone with no Baseband issue, will make the IMEI pop up.
 * If you go to Settings > General > About > Modem Firmware is blank

Troubleshooting & Solutions:
Sandwich separation
 * Split the sandwich & check for ripped pads on the top layer
 * If so, try to fix the ripped pads by scratching out the vias/traces & rebuild the pads using solder lugs
 * If no obvious bends, then test the 2 layers with the iSocket type of jig. This allows you to connect the 2 layers without soldering, for testing purposes.
 * See if the above symptoms are resolved. If so, sandwich the 2 layers back together & fully test with an active SIM & make sure all functions work
 * Including making a phone call & checking for sound through phone call
 * No sound during a phone call points towards a bad sandwich reball or separation

Bottom Board Swap
 * Doing a bottom board swap is an easy way to rule out the whole cellular circuit, as it's pretty much all located on the bottom board.
 * You do need to transfer the BBCPU, BB Eeprom & WiFi.
 * See the above "No Touch" solution with the bottom board swap instructions & details.
 * This video goes over in detail, how to diagnose the bottom board issue and how to do a bottom board swap: https://youtu.be/wrvS1E9pd60

BBCPU Reball
 * You can considering trying a BBCPU reball to see if this fixes the baseband issue
 * This is good for someone who doesn't have a replacement bottom board available.
 * Although there's a lower chance of success, as baseband issues aren't always a BBCPU reball solution.
 * It could be BBPMU
 * Or some other part of the complex circuit.

Please note: If you attempt the above repairs, but it's still stuck in "Searching..." or "No Service", then flash an update (DO NOT RESTORE). This can sometimes solve the issue. Not sure why it is needed sometimes.

If a phone with a baseband problem is restored, then the iOS software will "erase" the IMEI (baseband info) in the phone and will require the board issue to be fixed, then restored again, so the software will bring back the IMEI.

If you restore, and still has no IMEI, then a baseband/board issue is still present on the board. That will need to be fixed, then restored again. 3 Minute Restart
 * Random Restarting
 * Random Restarting
 * Symptoms:
 * The phone will restart every 3 minutes or so

Solution: No "Backlight"
 * For iPhone X and newer, there are sensors that are required to be detected by the operating system, otherwise, the phone will restart every 3 minutes.
 * Many times, this can happen after a hard drop, housing replacement or back glass laser repair.
 * You can look up the Panic Log in the Settings > Privacy > Analytics & Improvements > Analytics Data > then scroll down to the files that start with "panic-full..."
 * If you can find in the panic log "thermalmonitord..." and "missing sensor(s): Prs0" or "Mic1", then the issue will be due to a bad charging port
 * Make sure you have the charging port plugged in
 * Make sure the replacement port is OEM or Premium quality.
 * Aftermarket charging ports can still cause it to restart, even if it is charging fine
 * Here's a detailed video on how to read panic logs for troubleshooting random restarts: https://youtu.be/QaJLYbtuCGA
 * No Image
 * No Image
 * iPhone XS & XS Max uses an OLED display. This mean, there's no backlight, but many people will still diagnose No Image as "No Backlight".

Always make sure to test with a known good screen, to rule out a parts issue.

Symptoms:
 * Phone turns on but nothing displays on the screen
 * Screen always stays black
 * You can hear sounds & feel vibrations.

Solution:
 * Diode mode the display connector (J5700) & check for any shorts or OL (Open Lines).
 * In most cases, you'll find PP3V0_DISPLAY_CONN filter FL5783 is blown & needs to be replaced.
 * In other cases, you may find one or more of the 5 chokes L5700, L5710, L5730, L5740 or L5720 is damaged or broken from pry damage
 * In rare cases, you may discover there is long screw damage in the screw hole next to the battery connector, which will sever image lines from the chokes mentioned above.
 * Bootlooping
 * Symptoms:
 * Shows apple logo for about 5 seconds, then blank, then apple logo, then blank
 * Sometimes it shows a green flash for a second
 * If you try to flash an update or restore, it fails right away with an Error 4013
 * If you flash on 3u tools, it fails at 19%
 * If you flash on 3u tools, it fails at 19%

Solution:

Flex Cables:
 * Step 1 in this case is always unplug all the flex cables.
 * Ideally test the board with known good Screen, Battery & Charging Port.
 * If it boots, then one of your flexes is the cause.
 * 99% of the time, it is the ear speaker flex. The Flood Illuminator and/or the ALS has liquid damage.
 * The ear speaker flex is paired to the logic board for Face ID.
 * If you want to keep Face ID, you'll need to repair the flex. If Face ID is not important, then you can just replace the flex.
 * To repair the flex, you'll have to desolder the component & clean out all the corrosion, then place them back.
 * If the corrosion is too severe & it damaged the flex, then you'll need to swap the Flood Illuminator and ALS to a new flex, otherwise, you'll lose Face ID.
 * In some cases, another flex can cause this issue like a bad charging port.
 * In this case, just replace the flex

Sandwich Issue:
 * In some cases, the bootlooping and Error 4013 is caused by liquid damage on the bottom board.
 * Underneath the interposer, there are solder balls that connect to the bottom layer.
 * This solder is leaded high temp solder, so it's not easy to separate.
 * But you can split the top layer & test with a known good bottom board & see if it boots. If so, then your issue is on the bottom board
 * Inspect the space between the interposer and bottom layer & check for any signs of corrosion.
 * In some cases, you can get away with reflowing the area you find the corrosion.
 * The bubbling of the flux can cause enough friction to clear the corrosion causing bridging between pads.
 * If this doesn't work, you'll need to do a bottom board swap to get the device working.

Please Note: If the phone is stuck in Recovery Mode because it failed at the Error 4013, you have 2 options Assuming you fixed the root cause of the bootlooping issue, the above 2 options should get you a working phone.
 * 1) Kick the device out of Recovery Mode using 3U Tools. In the main screen of 3U Tools, you'll see a button that says "Exit Recovery Mode"
 * 2) You can attempt another update or restore.

If it still fails at 4013 or still bootloops, then you haven't solve the issue.
 * Phone freezes at the last digit of the pin code
 * Symptoms:
 * Phone boots fine
 * Type in your pin code & at the last digit, it freezes, keeping that digit highlighted for about 30-60 seconds
 * Then the screen restarts and you're back at the pin code screen.
 * Then the screen restarts and you're back at the pin code screen.

Solution:
 * Usually it's a sandwich issue, so follow the above "No Touch" steps to solve the problem
 * Sandwich reball
 * Or Bottom Board Swap
 * If you do a bottom board swap, without transferring the original NFC, the phone will go through a "swipe to recover" screen in most cases, where you put in the pin code, it loads a white "Attempting Data Recovery" screen & takes about 10-20 minutes.
 * This is basically the operating system rewriting the NFC chip, so it can unlock.
 * Then, the phone will work fine afterwards
 * }

Iphone Xs max Phone will not boot. Symptoms: Apple logo shows for 5 seconds and then reboots and does the same again. Solution: This is commonly either the charging port flex or the power button flex that needs replacing. To identify if it’s the power button flex, unclip the flex from the power button to the logic board via the fpc connector. Plug in the charging lead and if the phone boots normally, then you know its this flex. To identify if it’s the charging flex. Unplug the charging flex by the fpc connector and then turn on the phone using the power button. If it boots normally, then you know the charging flex is at fault.

FPC Connectors diode mode readings
Use these diode mode maps as a guide to troubleshoot a problem. You must use the RED PROBE on ground and the BLACK PROBE on the pin you are measuring.

For example: you are troubleshooting a no backlight situation, so you probe the pins on the display FPC that correspond to backlight. If a pin says you should read 0.65 and you are reading OL or a short to GND then that's where you need to go.

If instead of getting 0.65 you read 0.58, move on to the next one, remember every multimeter is different and even slight differences in temperature affect this readings. What you are looking for is extreme differences in values, if you are expecting some value and you get a short to ground that is where it is more likely to be your issue.

Battery connector (J3200)
iPhone XS battery connector. Pin 1 goes to bottom right, by the SIM card reader.

No data as of yet.