Nintendo SNES / Super Famicom

The second major console from Nintendo (Super Famicom in Japan, Super Nintendo in Europe and the USA), is the successor of the Famicom or Nintendo Entertainment System. It uses roughly the same hardware architecture as its predecessor, yet slightly improved.

''This article is based on the PAL and NTSC-J(Japanese) versions of the device. Some details in this article may be different for the NTSC(US) version''

Points to note

 * Before you do anything on the device, it is wise to have a quick visual inspection around the board. Are there any signs of liquid damaged, corrosion, scratches, burn marks, or leaked capacitors? Also read the Visual Inspection page.
 * If this guide talks about replacing one of the bigger chips (PPU/CPU/WRAM), the chip can be replaced with any version of that chip. Multiple versions of the CPU, PPU1, PPU2, and WRAM chips have been made and these can be mixed and matched without issues. None of these chips are still in production so they will have to be salvaged from a donating device.
 * It helps tremendously if you can get your hands on a SNES Burn-In Test Cart. Unofficial ones can be bought through various channels like Amazon or AliExpress for cheap. They can test various hardware issues.
 * The power smoothing capacitor inside the device holds quite a charge after the device has been turned off (because the power switch is positioned between the rectifier and caps and the rest of the device). Make sure you discharge this capacitor before you work on the machine's insides, otherwise the power switch on wires can drop on the PCB and damage the chips. This can be done by turning on the device using the power switch while there is no power supply plugged in. The power LED will flash shortly if you do this.
 * There are basically two major architectures for the device. The multi-chip, and the single-chip (1CHIP) versions. The latter is the latest version and combines multiple chips (CPU and PPU) into one. The number printed on the PCB should clearly show if it's a 1CHIP version.

Burn-in cartridge faults
The following table can be used if you use the Burn-in test cartridge.

Disassembly and reassembly
When disassembling and reassembling, keep in mind the Tips for Reassembling page.

Metal inserts in case
At the bottom of the case, there are two metal inserts underneath the PCB. On the Super Famicom the front one is shaped slightly different because of the size of the board. These inserts have to be in the right orientation for external devices (like the SatellaView) to be screwed onto the console. The thread has to be facing downwards (see picture).

Screws
Five types of screws are used in the assembly. All but one are Phillips Head screws. The outer case screw has a security head and disassembly will require a special screwdriver.



Screw placement
Some models have different locations for the screws, but the general idea of which screw goes where still counts (silvery long screws only for cart connector and connector plastic at the back). Keep attention to the correct angle of the screws. Especially if the case has been discolored, the plastic may be very brittle. Try to keep the screw at the proper angle when screwing them back in. Also use the technique to find the old thread as mentioned in the Tips for Reassembling page.

There is one screws on the top part of the case, holding the mechanism that grabs the cartridge when power is turned on. This is a short screw (S) and uses a, rather big in comparison, white plastic washer.

Detailed technical sources
Check the following links for more information:
 * Board layouts and components at Console5 TechWiki
 * Detailed schematics and pinouts at wiki.superfamicom.org
 * Some failure modes and fixes at DogP's Nintendo Super System page