Nintendo Switch

This page applies to the HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01) models.

Both of them mostly use the same ICs as each other. Please refer to the parts list below.

Some of the board revisions have a Diode pack, which can cause issues. The diode packs (or commonly referred to as diode arrays) can be removed without affecting the functionality of the console. They do not need to be replaced and removing them will reduce the number of future failure points from the console.

The HAC-001(-01) is a refresh of the HAC-001 model, with a better screen, and APU. You can fit an older LCD from a HAC-001 in there, and vice versa.

When repairing damaged Nintendo Switch charging ports, it is common that the P13USB (audio video driver) as well as the M92T36 (charging power IC) may also have gotten damaged. Check for shorted capacitors around those components when changing out the charging port. If you find shorted caps, remove the chips to see if the short is still present. If short is still present after the chip it corresponds to is removed, you may have a CPU issue. It is also safe to check the fuse right above the charging port to ensure it's not blown. Plug a USB-C Ampmeter into the Switch to ensure it is pulling 15 volts after repair. 15 volts means the charging circuit is functioning properly. If no image still recheck P13USB. If still no image, check to ensure the Switch is not in RCM mode using Hetake. Note that autoRCM mode can cause the battery to drain to a point where it can no longer be charged by the Switch brick. If amperage from the charge port is not around .5 amps, try a new battery and check for RCM.

If your Switch is stuck on a blue screen, this is traditionally failure of the eMMC but could also be ram or CPU related. A reflow sometimes works but the longevity of the repair is varying. Reball may be required.